The Mogette
The mogette, also known as mojette, mojhette, or, in some old Charente dialects, mongette, is a white bean that is emblematic of the cuisine of central-western France. In Charente and Charente-Maritime, it is a staple of rural, family-style cooking that favors simple, nourishing, and easy-to-preserve ingredients.
Long considered a staple food, the mogette is now experiencing a resurgence in popularity. It can be enjoyed dried, fresh, or semi-dried and is found at markets, in specialty grocery stores, and in the kitchens of restaurants that highlight regional products.
History and Origin
The bean is native to the New World and arrived in Europe following the voyages of discovery in the late 15th century. It gradually spread throughout the French countryside and took on different names depending on the region.
In the Central-West region, the term "mogette" or "mojhette" became established to refer to the white bean. The word, in fact, has numerous linguistic and regional variations. The Dictionnaire des régionalismes de France notes, in particular, the forms "mogette", "mojette", "mongette", and "monjette" depending on the region.
In Charente and Charente-Maritime, bean cultivation became an integral part of a diversified traditional agricultural system. The mogette was particularly valuable to rural families: it stored easily once dried, provided plant-based protein, and could serve as the basis for a meal with just a few additional ingredients.
However, it is important to avoid a common misconception: not all Charente mogettes are "Mogettes de Vendée". The latter is a specific product that has held a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) since 2010.
Charente-Maritime, in particular, has a tradition centered on the mojhette de Pont-l’Abbé-d’Arnoult, grown in the Arnoult Valley, a region particularly well-suited to vegetable farming.
Characteristics
The mogette is a white bean with generally fairly large seeds, a thin skin, and flesh that becomes tender when cooked long enough.
It comes in various forms:
- dried mogette: it has a long shelf life and generally requires soaking before cooking;
- semi-dry mogette: harvested before fully ripe, it is more tender and cooks more quickly;
- fresh mogette: sold in pods or shelled, it is mainly available during the harvest season.
Texture is one of its main qualities: when cooked properly, the mogette becomes creamy and melt-in-your-mouth while retaining some firmness. It has a mild flavor that absorbs seasonings, cooking juices, and smoked ingredients particularly well.
The mogette is therefore an ingredient particularly well-suited to slow-cooked dishes.
Tasting
In Charente, mogette beans can be prepared very simply. They are often cooked for a long time with onions, garlic, herbs, and sometimes tomatoes. Some recipes include bacon bits or serve the beans with local cured meats.
They can also be served with:
- ham;
- rillettes and other cured meats;
- roasted or braised meats;
- a green salad or dandelion greens;
- toast;
- a warm bean salad.
A particularly interesting way to prepare them is to serve the mogettes while still warm with a little butter and herbs. Their melt-in-your-mouth texture also makes them ideal for making cream soups, purées, or more contemporary side dishes.
For dried mogettes, soaking them beforehand is generally recommended. They should then be cooked gently for a sufficiently long time to achieve that characteristic melt-in-your-mouth texture.
Variations
The mogette bean goes by several names and forms depending on the region.
In Charente and neighboring regions, the terms mogette, mojette, mojhette, mongette, and monjette are commonly used. These variations in terminology reflect the long history of bean cultivation in regional languages and dialects.
There is also a distinction between dishes made with dried, semi-dried, and fresh beans. Semi-dried beans are particularly prized for their texture and flavor, as they do not require the rehydration process needed for dried beans.
Finally, the Charente mogette should not be confused with the Mogette de Vendée IGP, which is subject to specific production standards and a defined geographical production area. The Mogette de Vendée is characterized in particular by its thin skin, uniform white color, and melt-in-your-mouth texture after cooking.
Where can you find this specialty?
The easiest place to start is at markets and grocery stores that carry regional products. Markets are particularly good places to find fresh or semi-dried mogettes in season and to meet producers directly.
The Halles Market is a particularly good place to look for local products. The markets in the Pays d’Angoulême region are excellent spots to discover mogettes and other Charente specialties.
You can also contact a few grocery stores in Angoulême to find out if they carry mogettes or other regional beans:
- Chez Lucette (Angoulême): a specialty grocery store where it’s worth looking for regional products.
- Au Meilleur de la France (Angoulême): a grocery store located right in the heart of the Les Halles district.
- Coccinelle & Coquelicot - Angoulême and Coccinelle & Coquelicot - Gond-Pontouvre: farmers’ markets where you can inquire.
For these shops, it’s best to call ahead before visiting, as the availability of mogettes that actually come from Charente can vary depending on shipments.
When can you find them?
Availability depends heavily on the form you’re looking for.
Dried mogettes are the easiest to find: they can be stored year-round and are therefore available outside the harvest season.
Fresh or semi-dry mogettes, on the other hand, are a seasonal product. In Angoulême and the surrounding region, they’re available at markets in July and August, with the season sometimes extending further into late summer depending on the harvest.
So it’s in the summer, particularly between July and August, that you should head to the markets to discover the mogette in its freshest form.
Conclusion
The mogette is much more than just a white bean: it is part of the culinary heritage of central-western France and the farming tradition of the Charente region. Its simplicity is precisely what makes it so special: a few beans, some herbs, slow cooking, and local ingredients are all it takes to create a hearty, comforting dish.
In the Angoulême region, markets and specialty grocery stores are the best places to start your exploration. For a truly seasonal experience, the best option is to look for fresh or semi-dried mogette beans in July and August, while the dried version allows you to enjoy this dish year-round.
Finally, tasting a Charente mogette bean is also a way to discover a small part of the Charente’s rural history: a cuisine born from accessible ingredients that has now become a culinary hallmark of the region.