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Goat Cheese

Goat cheese is an integral part of the culinary heritage of the Charente and, more broadly, of the Poitou-Charentes region. In this region, which has a long history of goat farming, there is a wide variety of cheeses: fresh, aged, creamy, dry, ash-coated, or molded according to local traditions. The Poitou-Charentes region is also a major center of French goat cheese production.

It is therefore more accurate to speak of “Charente goat cheeses” rather than a single cheese officially bearing that name. Among the region’s iconic specialties are the Taupinière charentaise, the Manslois, and farm-made goat cheeses produced directly by the farmers.

History and Origins

Goat farming has a long history in western France. Archaeological evidence shows that domestic goats were present in the region as far back as prehistoric times. During the Middle Ages, goat farming expanded, particularly in the Poitou and Charentes regions.

For a long time, goats played an important role on small farms. They required relatively few resources and provided milk used to make cheese for family consumption or local sale.

The 19th century marked a new phase. Following the phylloxera crisis of 1875, some of the vineyard land in Poitou was converted to dairy farming. The development of cooperatives beginning in the late 19th century then helped to establish a sustainable structure for the regional goat industry.

This history explains why goat cheese is now so deeply associated with the agricultural landscapes of Charente and Poitou.

Characteristics and Ingredients

The basic recipe is intentionally simple:

  • goat’s milk, raw or pasteurized depending on the producer;
  • lactic cultures;
  • rennet, if used;
  • salt;
  • sometimes vegetable ash for certain cheeses.

The processing of the milk, and especially the aging process, gives rise to a wide variety of textures and flavors. A fresh cheese will be mild, moist, and slightly tangy, while a more aged cheese will become firmer, drier, and more robust.

Goat cheeses from Charente can thus be produced using various techniques: slow-coagulating lactic-fermented curd, faster coagulation, pressed curd, longer or shorter aging periods, etc.

Near the Charente region, the Chabichou du Poitou AOP is also an essential part of the region’s goat cheese heritage. Its appellation area includes, in particular, the northern part of the Charente. It is recognizable by its truncated cone shape, soft texture, and white rind, and is aged for at least ten days.

Tasting

Charente goat cheese can be enjoyed both fresh and aged.

To fully appreciate its qualities, it is recommended to take it out of the refrigerator a few dozen minutes before tasting. You can then observe how its flavor evolves:

  • Fresh: soft texture, milky flavor with a slight tang.
  • Semi-aged: firmer texture and more developed aromas.
  • Aged: a more pronounced character, with notes of goat, forest floor, or dried fruit, depending on the cheese and its aging process.

It pairs naturally with country bread, nuts, honey, or jams. It can also be used in a salad, on warm toast, or in various recipes.

To stay true to the Charente region, try pairing it with a Pineau des Charentes or a regional white wine. Chabichou du Poitou is particularly recommended with a well-chilled Pineau des Charentes.

Varieties

Diversity is one of the great strengths of Charente goat cheese.

Notable varieties include:

  • fresh cheese, which is very mild and creamy;
  • crottin, which is small in size and generally becomes more intense with aging;
  • goat cheese log, which is easy to slice and very versatile in the kitchen;
  • ash-coated cheeses, whose surfaces are covered with edible ash;
  • local farm cheeses, whose characteristics vary depending on the farming methods, the goats’ diet, and the producer’s expertise.

Where can you find this specialty?

To discover local goat cheeses, there are several options around Angoulême.

  • Les Fromages de MaLo - 62 rue de Saintes, Angoulême: a cheese shop where you can find regional goat cheeses.
  • Fromagerie Les Amis - Halles centrales d’Angoulême: another great spot to discover a selection of cheeses.
  • Au Jard’in des Chèvres - Vouzan: a spot directly linked to local goat farming.
  • Chèvres de Sireuil - Sireuil: a chance to explore the production process directly at a goat farm.
  • La Bulle de Chèvre - Val-d’Auge: another producer worth discovering in the Charente region.

The Angoulême Market Halls and the Victor Hugo Market are also great places to find local producers and vendors.

Producers’ availability and hours may vary; it’s best to check before heading out.

When is it available?

Goat cheese is available year-round, but farm-produced cheeses may follow the goats’ lactation cycle. Spring and early summer are often particularly good times to discover a wide variety of fresh and aged cheeses.

It’s also worth comparing different stages of aging: the same type of cheese can have a very different flavor depending on its age.

Conclusion

Charente goat cheese is much more than just a gourmet product: it reflects an agricultural history, a regional terroir, and expertise passed down through generations.

From small family farms to the cheese dairies of Angoulême, this tradition remains very much alive. To truly discover the Charente’s culinary heritage, nothing beats tasting several cheeses, preferably from local producers, to compare their textures, aging profiles, and distinct flavors.